One Chinatown restaurant. Two wildly different approaches. Toronto chef ‘pushing boundaries’ of Chinese food

On weekends at Hong Shing, the kitchen sees an extra flurry of activity — and it’s not just because of the Friday night crowd.

On one side, plates of crispy General Tso’s chicken and wok-fried green beans are served to the dining room or packed for takeout. On the other side, chef Eva Chin and her sous chef, Cyril Maquinto, hover over rows of scallop crudo, served in its shell and floating in a little acidic green pond of Sichuan peppercorn, cilantro, mint, vinegar and citrus juice. The fat scallops conceal a little disc of thinly sliced Asian pear, bought from a sidewalk vendor in Chinatown, and fermented broccoli microgreens from Green Buffalo Farm, a Chinese-owned microgreen farm in Markham.

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